Showing posts with label project. Show all posts

Saturday, February 22, 2014

Back to Work Project finish photos

Hi Everyone,

Im back to work and slowly getting back into to the swing of things. While I was busy last week I had a couple of hours to kill and so I completed a couple of recent projects.

Here are the finish photos:

The Oatmeal Bowl

This is the bowl I started for a cousin of mine in California. Ive been reading Robin Woods bowl book and was entranced by the wooden bowls that were retrieved from the excavation of the Mary Rose that he writes about. I wanted very much to do a couple of projects based on the design of those 500 year old bowls so I created several turning blocks out of a linden wood tree branch that I retrieved earlier this summer. My intent then was to produce bowls similar in shape, design, and size to those bowls used by the crewmen onboard that ship.

Here is the first. Its a little larger than a personal soup sized bowl. The wood contains a lot of mineral staining and it has a rather rustic look to it. This is the interior of the bowl:

And this is a side view. You can see that the bowl is a little distorted and that was intentional on my part:

And the bowl will be mailed to my cousin later this week along with one of my cooking spoons and a bag of my favorite steel-cut oats and a brief history lesson:

Sharing Wood Turning bowl:

This is the bowl I made with my nephew several weeks ago when he was here visiting. I really enjoyed getting to know him again while he was here and he seemed to enjoy his brief intro to wood turning. We produced a small bowl than the previous bowl and this has a slightly different rim. Both bowls have chamfered rims like the originals which enabled their owners to drink from them as well as eat from them:

Here is a photo of the interior along with a smaller, eating sized spoon that I made for him. As hes something of a foodie Im also sending him a bag of my favorite steel cut oats for him to experiment with:

The Kuksa

Along with the above two bowls, I produced a small kuksa, which is a small wooden cup. I carved it down from the larger cup-blank of several weeks ago and here it is at present. Turning this with the handle protruding was a real pain and so I dont recommend trying to turn a kuksa in this manner. The next time I do this Ill turn a wide section just beneath the rim and carve out the handle from that.

This still needs some refinement and Ill have to think of a good finish for this. Ill probably finish it with salad bowl varnish like the bowls above:

The Veggie-Dip Bowl

This came out rather well. Im sending this to a friend in a week or two as a Christmas present. I hope shell enjoy it:

I think we can stick a fork in those projects and call them done.

Its freezing cold outside and its also Thanksgiving week here in the US so Im going to put off started my next project until the end of the week when its supposed to warm up some.

The next project is the long promised box elder bowl for a friend of mine. See you all on Friday.

VW

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Three Sisters Project Walnut platter

Hi Everyone,

Well, its the first day of spring and I feel like Im frozen solid. I spent a little over an hour in the shop this afternoon and I was getting chill blains so I stopped, gathered up the camera and the platter and decided to stop for the day.

I decided to work on the walnut platter today and here are the photos from this session;

Here is the walnut blank. This is a nice, small clear piece of black walnut and it should work well for this project:

Here is the blank on the lathe, ready to turn. Ive marked off the foot of the platter with a pencil. This platter will have a very shallow, narrow foot, just enough to elevate the platter off of whatever surface it sits on:

Here you can see the foot taking shape. Ive also removed wood from the bottom surface to the edge of the rim:

This is a profile photo of the blank. Compare it with the photo underneath. You can see how the bottom is angled towards the rim and how the rim is being shaped and turned in towards the center of the top of the blank:

I had wanted to create an orange peel effect on the outside surface of the platter and to do this I used my wire wheel in my hand drill. Unfortunately it didnt work so I decided instead to smooth the surfaced down and get it ready for oiling a little later on:

Here is a photo of the platter thus far. Ive hollowed it out some and created a rather wide rim, which Im not too keen on at the moment. I may wind up narrowing that down some:

Here is the underside of the platter:

And this is a side shot of the rim:

This platter needs more turning. Theres a slight bump in the center of the platter that needs to be removed and the rim needs to be narrowed about 1/8 ". I think narrowing the rim will look a little better.

As its really cold out, Im staying in for the rest of the first day of spring and getting warmed up. I may work on the platter tomorrow if I have some spare time.

More later,

VW

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Northville MI project finishing the kitchen

Part of the Northville project is to install new cabinet panels on the ends of all of the cabinets, uppers and lowers. Im also installing new base, that was painted and glazed to match the cabinet doors. Kudos to the homeowner for doing highlighting and painting touch ups throughout the project!

Ive started from the ground up by installing the new base. Then, Ive painted and glazed some filler strips to go behind the door panels. This will provide a stable base for the doors, and also give a nice finished look all the way around. This is one area you dont want to cut corners!

Here are some before and after pics of the island and surrounding areas. All endpanels are new additions as well as the base covering the old toekick areas...

Tuesday, February 4, 2014

Northville Mi project staircase work

Continuing on with my trim project, Im moving to the stairway. The wall of the stairway is bare now, and the owner wants me to install a chair rail, and shadowbox trim underneath.
Im starting with the chair rail. The first thing to do is establish a line for the trim to follow. This line will be the same height and slope as the handrail. Once laid out, I can mount the chair rail.
Ive also managed to mount the top and bottom shadowbox. Ill be cutting the angled middle shadowbox trims in my shop over the weekend, and installing them next week.

Friday, January 31, 2014

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Thursday, January 30, 2014

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Sunday, January 26, 2014

Coffee Table Project Contd

Ive managed to make a lot of progress on this coffee table project over the last weekend. Once I got through the design and shaping of the legs, I was pretty straight forward. What I had to do next was mill and cut the rails to their rough size. Once that was done, I used the router table to cut the tenons to match the mortises in the legs. I just used a 3/4" bit set to a 1/4" height; I only cut one side of the tenon, the front, since the back will be be visible and this allows me to use a larger tenon than normal. At this point, the tenon is really just a rabbet along the front side, I simply take each tenon and lay it next to the mortise to mark the points that I need to cut off.

From Coffee Table

Once I had all the tenons cut and fit, I put the whole thing together for a dry fit.

From Coffee Table

I still have some finish sanding to do, as well as round all the edges on rails, but that should not take long. I am still trying to decide if I want to add a bead detail to the rails and legs or not; I cannot decide.

Saturday, January 25, 2014

Northville MI project polygons and other creatures

I need to cut some odd angles for the stairway shadowboxes. My objective is to make 5 equal polygons. My angles are 49 degrees, and the opposing 131 degree side. These cannot be achieved on my normal Delta 10" miter saw because its too shallow, making it a dangerous cut. I was going to try them on the table saw, but ran into some issues with that. My solution was to cut a template on the band saw, and temporarily secure it to my larger Dewalt 12" miter saw. This will give me a guide to follow, and the ability to cut the pieces more safely. Safety is the key - dont try any cut unless you feel confident in it!

The angles must be halved in order to come up with a properly mitered corner. Therefore, Im after a 24.5 degree cut, and a 65.5 degree cut. With the template I made, I can simply flip it over and backwards to achieve the opposing cuts! Here are the pics, and the final results...

If anyone has another solution for cutting odd angles, please email me - Id like to hear your ideas!

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Friday, January 24, 2014

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Thursday, January 23, 2014

Moulding Plane Shelves Project The Tool Sets

Heres the tool shot that would have normally been at the end of the moulding shelves project post:

My idea was to divide the group into smaller, task based, sets. Its a good idea, but somewhat problematic, as reality is not quite that organized. For example, should the bevel gauge be included with "layout" tools or "dovetail" tools? I chose both. Of course, the sharp eyed reader will point out that the same bevel gauge is NOT included in the full tool group photograph. Hmm. I guess its not that FULL after all...

Im not really trying to do anything more than the grouping, but I will include a few notes here and there. Anyway, heres my attempt at an organized tool breakdown.

Layout Tool Set:

Framing square w/ Veritas square fence*, shop-made marking gauge, 6 zigzag rule, shop-made panel gauge, pencil**, marking knife, dividers w/ pencil**, bevel gauge, 6" square.

* I like this fence, but wish it was thin on both sides, so I could use it on 3/4 stock in left and right orientation.
** Dixon Ticonderoga 1388-2/HB Soft, of course!

Dimensioning Tool Set:

Stanley #65 low angle block plane, framing square w/ Veritas square fence, cross-cut panel saw*, rip saw, shop-made marking gauge, marking knife, 6 zigzag rule, 6" square.

* Being on the shorter side, I prefer shorter saws - especially for cross cutting. This one is 20" with 12tpi.

Dado Tool Set:

Maul*, framing square w/ Veritas square fence, 6 zigzag rule, 3/4" dado plane**, Gramercy holdfasts***, batten, hammer, marking knife, story stick****.

* Like a lot of my shop-made tools, this was a quick and dirty prototype that just kept working...
** An Ohio Tool Co. 3/4" dado plane that came to me with a sketchy replacement iron, which I reshaped and hardened, and now it works great (Thanks again Dave!).
*** I am just loving these! My old system worked fine, but these are slick and a joy to use. If you are considering buying a pair, do it!
**** This should have appeared in the layout set as well. I dont know why I dont always make one of these. It was very useful, and saved me from cutting a dado on the wrong side of a line more than once.

Shaping Tool Set:

6 zigzag rule, half-round file (fine), half-round file (coarse), shop-made turning saw, Veritas spokeshave (round), Veritas spokeshave (flat), dividers w/ pencil*.

* Dixon Ticonderoga 1388-2/HB Soft. Dont ask...

Rabbet Tool Set:

Maul, sneaky framing square*, flat bladed screw driver**, Record #778 rabbet plane***, Gramercy holdfasts, 6 zigzag rule.

* NOT used for this task - dont know how it made it into that shot without me noticing.
** The set screws on the 778 are slotted - using the screwdriver is slower, but much more secure. No wandering fence or depth gauge here!
*** Or rebate plane for any Brits who might be reading this. Go Cavendish!

Surfacing Tool Set:

Stanley #7 jointer plane, Stanley #5 jack plane, Stanley #3 smooth plane, Stanley #65 low angle block plane.

Dovetail Tool Set:

Coping saw, pencil*, Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw (rip), shop-made marking gauge**, bevel gauge, Marples chisel, marking knife.

* Do I have to say it again?
** Sharpened to a knife point.

Boring and Fastening Tool Set:

Millers Falls 6" brace*, phillips hex driver bit, hex driver adapter**, no-name egg beater drill***, twist bits, hammer, bit gauge, 6 zigzag rule.

* Smaller braces are great for driving screws - much faster rotation, but still plenty of power.
** Not really needed - the brace chuck can hold the hex driver on its own, but its so stubby it is hard to see whats going on - the adapter improves visibility greatly.
*** With the c. 1976 price from Jim Klauder & Sons Country Hardware in my Dads handwriting - not the best drill in my kit, but my favorite.

Well, I dont think I will be doing this for every project. Its too much work for one thing, and it would probably bore most readers to tears. It was kind of interesting as an exercise in classification - at least for me - but maybe Im just strange that way...